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Meet The Woman Changing The Diversity And Inclusion Status Quo At Gap Inc.

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Meet Bahja Johnson, the Director of Banana Republic Global Merchandising and a dynamic retail professional with demonstrated success devising innovative category strategies that improve financial performance, increase market share, and deliver exceptional product to the customer. She began her career at Gap Inc. in 2012 as part of the company’s prestigious Rotational Management Program, and has advanced throughout her time there in various merchandising roles. In her current role at Banana Republic, Johnson leads omni-channel product assortment strategies across multiple departments within the Men’s merchandising organization.  

In addition to her merchandising experience, Johnson is a passionate product inclusion leader. In 2018, Bahja co-founded The Color Proud Council, Gap Inc.’s first product inclusion initiative, with the mission of bringing diversity to the bottom line of the business by improving product education and pipeline, as well as talent acquisition and retention. Color Proud works hand in hand with brand and Gap Inc. leadership and key employees to address inclusivity on all fronts — through tackling bias in the way designs are sketched to the creation of actual products in stores. Separate from the company-sponsored employee resource groups or the D&I team, the council’s first order of business came to life in Banana Republic’s True Hues Line, a collection of nude undergarments and shoes that better represent a range of skin tones, which drove sales by 21%, proving a need for continued diversity and inclusion within the fashion industry. 

We spoke with Johnson about her career journey, the importance of diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry and the impact of The Color Proud Council at Gap Inc. 

Dominique Fluker: What sparked your interest in fashion merchandising? 

Bahja Johnson: My journey into fashion was both atypical and serendipitous. Retail wasn’t on my radar professionally, as I had my heart set on a career in either marketing or consulting; however, they say you are where you’re supposed to be, and what I thought I wanted to do clearly wasn’t meant for me.  

The summer before my senior year at college, I landed a marketing internship at a retail company in my hometown of St. Louis, Missouri. Although my role was focused on marketing, I kept spending time with the merchants, buyers, and designers to learn more about how and why their products were made. Through this, I realized that at the heart of my career aspirations was a natural inquisitiveness, a tenacity for problem-solving, and a passion for people. Though I didn’t see it at first, the retail industry was the perfect match.  

Given the realization I had, I decided to explore other career options and ultimately landed on the Gap Inc. career website. This is where things get serendipitous, because my parents met at the Gap. They worked as leaders in the field and met as District Managers in New Jersey in the late 80s. I grew up with nothing but positive memories of the company – from picking my first-day-of-school outfits to being mesmerized by the 90s commercials that dominated the airwaves. I had nothing to lose, so I took my chances and applied for a role.  

Fluker: You began your career at Gap Inc. in 2012 as part of the company’s prestigious Rotational Management Program. Share your process in advancing in various merchandising roles. 

Johnson: The Rotational Management Program (RMP) is the foundation of my success at Gap. It was 9 months of hands-on training experience that gave me the opportunity to impact the business and network with leaders across the organization. RMP unlocked what I loved about the industry and led me to a passion for merchandising. 

After graduating, my first role was on the Gap North America Merchandising Team as the Assistant Merchant of Women’s Knits. I was part of the team for about 9 months before making a lateral move to Banana Republic, where I joined the Men’s Merchandising organization in Men’s Woven Shirts. Over five and a half years later, I have now managed every apparel category in the Men’s division.  

Fluker: In addition to your vast merchandising experiences, you’re also passionate about being a product inclusion leader. Share why diversity and inclusion within the merchandising space is important to you. 

Johnson: Diversity and inclusion within merchandising, and the retail industry at large, is important to me because the impact of the work is deeply personal. As a black woman, I grew up hyper aware that I was an “other,” as my environment was such that I rarely saw people who looked like me. One of the most prevalent examples of this was my experience with clothing – I wanted to look and feel good in the clothes I wore, yet it was so hard to find styles that fit me: styles for my brown skin, tall stature, and developing frame; styles made with me in mind. Those experiences have stuck with me to this day, as they directly impacted my overall confidence and self-worth. I promised myself long ago that if I was ever in a position to make a difference, I would pour my all into doing so. As its founder, the Color Proud Council is me fulfilling that promise.  

Fluker: What could fashion brands be doing to expand their diversity and inclusion initiatives within the product merchandising space? Have you seen any good examples of this? 

Johnson: Inclusion within the retail industry in general is now table stakes, and companies that don’t understand this and take action will fall behind. Customers are voting with their values as much as their wallets and are more outspoken than ever when they feel a company has missed the mark. That said, their ask isn’t egregious – they just want to see themselves reflected in their clothes, and I truly believe it’s our job as retailers to make that happen. In order to do that, inclusion must be at the forefront of every product decision – from concept all the way to marketing and the online/in-store experience – and the decision makers must reflect the changing demographic of the customer base.  

A shining example of a company that’s nailed this is Rihanna’s SAVAGE x FENTY line. Rihanna has committed herself and her team to celebrating underrepresentation in every aspect. She unapologetically celebrates various shapes, sizes, and colors – and magnifies the beauty of real women on a global scale. She sparked a dialogue within the industry that can’t be ignored and is forcing previously dominant players in the space to reassess what they stand for.  

Fluker: In 2018, you co-founded the Color Proud Council, Gap Inc.’s first product inclusion initiative, with the intention of bringing diversity to the bottom line of the business by improving product education and pipeline as well as talent acquisition and retention. Share why the Color Proud Council is needed at Gap Inc. 

Johnson: For me and my co-founder, the Color Proud Council journey was momentous. We started at the company together, and along the road faced similar experiences as black women in product-facing roles. Like many other employees, we found community in the company’s Equality & Belonging Network Groups, groups focused on supporting underrepresented identities and experiences; however, as partners in the business, we felt there was an opportunity to have more diverse voices in the room impacting the products we make and sell everyday. We identified that there was not only a business case for the council and its core focus on product, but that there was a true human component to having the employees on these teams feel seen and heard.  

The Color Proud Council started as a grassroots movement comprised of Gap Inc. employees from diverse backgrounds who work directly [and are experts] in either product functions or talent recruitment and retention roles. The council focuses on all areas of diversity, including (but not limited to) gender, race, ethnicity, body type, sexual orientation, age, religion, gender and those with disabilities. The council works together to ensure inclusivity and customer-centric decisions are at the heart of the company’s work, from product creation and marketing to talent recruitment. As a company, our values are rooted in the spirit of equality, and the momentum the Color Proud Council has seen in less than two years is a direct reflection of that.  

The True Hues collection from Banana Republic is a great example of how the council’s influence has directly impacted the business. This collection utilized a different approach from the beginning, as the foundation was rooted in reflecting the diversity of our customer base. To do so, we needed to influence the process end-to-end. From meeting with our in-house colorist to match the hues across various skin tones, to shooting the product on a diverse set of models, we knew that the execution would only prove successful if inclusion was felt at every stage of the product lifecycle.  

Fluker: What’s next for The Color Proud Council? 

Johnson: We are celebrating the wins and using them to propel us to new heights. In sharing our learnings, we’re inspiring new, inclusive products at other brands in the Gap Inc. Portfolio and seeing more customer representation on our teams every single day. 2020 will be an exciting year for Color Proud, as our customers will see the council’s impact! 

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